Continuing our formulation video series, we are tackling the topic of cleansing and specifically how to make a cleansing oil. Cleansing is one of the most important parts of your skincare ritual. After a long day at work, if you wear make-up, after the gym or even after travelling in polluted cities, cleansing the skin is essential as it removes all the dirt and grime accumulated during the day.
Quite often, not properly cleansed skin can be the cause of breakouts or blackheads so all the more reason to use a gentle cleanser daily. Cleansing also paves the path to toning and moisturising your skin so then it is ready for nourishment. We all have our favourite cleanser whether it is a balm, a foam or even a micellar water.
In today’s post we are bringing you a super simple yet effective cleansing product. This cleansing oil is easily removed with water as it turns to milk when in contact with water. Often when using simple cleansing oils, you will need to use a hot cloth or towel to remove the residue but this formula will not require that. It will also not dry out the skin, but will leave it supple and soft.
Previous formulation videos:
In this formula, the most important ingredient is Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate. This particular component will help emulsify the oils when in contact with water, in other words as you wash the cleansing oil off, the water will loosen the oils and the grime with it. The oil will turn into a milky consistency. Its tradename is Durosoft PG4O but you may find it easier to search for this ingredient by using its INCI name.Make a luxurious, natural camellia cleansing oil with the help of our latest formulation video! #formulation #cleansingoils #beauty Click To Tweet
Next up, we have a selection of oils which we chose specifically for a cleansing product. The key ingredient is Camellia oil. It is cold-pressed from the seeds of the Camellia oleifera plant and it is packed with antioxidants and some vitamins. It is a fantastic oil to have in cleansing products and leaves the skin soft without greasiness. We created an essential oil blend using clary sage, lavender and bergamot. This blend, we feel is completely unisex but you can of course alter this choice to your liking and we offer some alternatives below.
1. Weigh the Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate (Phase A) into a beaker and set it aside. This will help remove the oil cleanser from the skin.
2. In another beaker weigh the oils one by one (Phase B). Stir well.
3. Add the tocopherol (Vitamin E) and finally weigh in the essential oils.
4. Stir it well until you see the blend clearing.
5. While stirring, slowly add the oil blend to the Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate. Make sure the oils are incorporated completely.
6. We can now decant the cleansing oil into a clean pump bottle.
Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate* – 15%
Jojoba oil – 35%
Camellia oil – 30%
Strawberry seed oil – 15%
Castor oil – 3.5%
Tocopherol – 0.30%
Bergamot essential oil – 0.60%
Lavender essential oil – 0.40%
Clary sage essential oil – 0.20%
How to use it
This cleansing oil works well as a daily skin cleanser. Massage a couple of pumps of the oil into the skin. Add a little bit of water to skin and continue massaging to loosen up the dirt and grime. You will notice that the oil will turn into a milky consistency when you add water. This is because the Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate helps emulsify the oils, making them easier to remove from the skin. Follow it by using a toner and your favourite moisturiser.
*Be aware that there are several versions of Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate available on the market with the same INCI but which may demonstrate differences when you formulate with them. From our experiments, there have been generally been differences between those sold by EU/UK and US/Canadian suppliers with the latter sometimes splitting into a biphase product. We will have further research soon to help you identify which version you have and some advice on how to work with it to create a homogenous end product.
Other essential oil blends to try include:
1. Cedarwood 0.40% and Bergamot 0.60%
2. Frankincense 0.20%, Lavender 0.25% and Grapefruit 0.55%
Comparison of oil content and fatty acid profile of ten new camellia oleifera cultivars
Anti-inflammatory and antioxidative effects of camellia oleifeira Abel components
Jojoba in dermatology: A succinct review
Suggested suppliers for Camellia seed oil:
The Soap Kitchen (Ships Internationally)
What is the best cleansing oil?
Strange though it may seem, botanical oils are excellent cleansers, lifting oil-soluble grime and particles from the skin. The choice of oil comes down to how you like your skin to feel after the oil cleanse. Usually, oil cleansers contain lighter, drier oils that won’t leave the skin feeling greasy. Dry oils with nourishing properties include cold-pressed Camellia oil (Camellia oleifera) which is packed with antioxidants and some vitamins and leaves the skin feeling soft and cleansed.
How can I make a homemade oil cleanse?
An oil cleanser is really simply to make at home as all you need are some cold-pressed botanical seed oils. Choose ones that will leave your skin cleansed, soft and non greasy. Dry and more astringent oils ideal in cleansers include jojoba, camellia, grapeseed, safflower, sunflower, walnut and rosehip. As some of the oil remains on the skin, opt for those with other useful properties such as those rich in antioxidants and vitamin E. If you wish to make an oil cleanser to wash off rather than pat off with a cloth, use a water-in-oil emulsifier such as Polyglyceryl 4 Oleate which will turn the cleansing oil to a milk when in contact with water. If you wish, add up to 1 per cent of essential oils, such as lavender that naturally soothes and cleanses the skin
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Timi was a key member of the Formula Botanica team from 2015 to 2020; first as our Education Manager and then as Head of Formulation & Research. You can find out more about the Formula Botanica team here.