Podcast 295: Could vitamin C’s days be numbered in skincare?

Vitamin C has long reigned as skincare royalty – the ingredient everyone knows and trusts for its brightening and antioxidant powers. But a quiet revolution might be underway.

And in this week’s episode of Green Beauty Conversations, Lorraine Dallmeier, CEO of Formula Botanica, asks whether vitamin C’s reign could finally be coming to an end.

The challenger? Hydroxytyrosol – a natural compound found in olives that early research suggests could outperform vitamin C in antioxidant strength, while also soothing redness and supporting collagen production.

Even more remarkably, this potent ingredient is upcycled from olive waste, turning what would otherwise be discarded into a sustainable skincare innovation.

In this fascinating episode, Lorraine is joined by Charlotte Julien, Formula Botanica graduate and founder of Edelweiss Creation, formerly known as éméo consulting (as referenced in the episode).

Charlotte also worked with Swiss biotech pioneer Gaia Tech, helping the company understand indie beauty and skincare brand needs, and now runs her own consultancy-turned-branded company focused on guiding beauty brands in formulation, sustainability, and strategic positioning.

Together, Lorraine and Charlotte explore whether this olive-derived antioxidant could become the next big thing in green beauty – and perhaps the ingredient that finally dethrones vitamin C.

“If we can use an upcycled ingredient that’s stable, multifunctional, and kind to the environment, it’s a win–win for both skin and planet.” — Charlotte Julien

In this episode with Charlotte Julien, you will hear:

• How Gaia Tech is turning olive waste into skincare gold: Charlotte explains how Swiss start-up Gaia Tech developed Phenoliva Active, a COSMOS-approved antioxidant made from upcycled olive pomace that could outperform vitamin C.
• Why hydroxytyrosol could rival vitamin C: Discover how hydroxytyrosol delivers antioxidant potency stronger than vitamin C itself. Charlotte reveals how it also brightens skin, calms irritation, and supports collagen – all while remaining gentle and stable in formulations.
• The sustainability story behind the science: Phenoliva Active is a great example of a full-circle sustainability model – from organic olive farms in Tuscany to Swiss innovation labs. Charlotte shares how Gaia Tech’s process reduces waste, lowers carbon impact, and maintains full traceability throughout the supply chain.
• Why indie beauty brands are best placed to innovate: Charlotte discusses why small, agile brands are leading the charge in adopting novel actives like hydroxytyrosol. Thanks to low minimum order quantities and accessible pricing, indie formulators can now experiment with cutting-edge ingredients that once only major brands could afford.

Key takeouts include:

• Hydroxytyrosol may outshine vitamin C in antioxidant power: Early research shows hydroxytyrosol’s antioxidant strength surpasses that of vitamin C, offering multiple skin benefits such as soothing, brightening, and firming. Its multifunctionality makes it a compelling new active for the next generation of green formulations.
• Upcycling is driving the future of beauty innovation: By transforming olive waste into a high-value skincare ingredient, Gaia Tech highlights how waste reduction and innovation can go hand in hand. Their process is COSMOS-approved, solvent-free, and proven to have a smaller carbon footprint than traditional disposal.
• Stability and usability set it apart: Unlike vitamin C, which is notoriously unstable, hydroxytyrosol is water-soluble, colour-stable, and retains efficacy over time. It’s easy to formulate with and effective at just 0.2-1% concentration – making it cost-effective and formulation-friendly.
• Empowering small brands to lead in science and sustainability: Gaia Tech’s decision to make Phenoliva Active available in quantities as low as 100 ml opens the door for indie brands to compete with larger players.
• The beauty industry’s next chapter is circular: As consumers demand transparency and responsibility, Charlotte and Lorraine agree that upcycling must become the new normal. Turning “waste” into world-class actives shows how true sustainability can power the next wave of beauty.

Meet our guest: Charlotte Julien, founder of Edelweiss Creation

Charlotte Julien is the founder of Edelweiss Creation. After more than ten years of creating, developing, and managing her own natural skincare brand, she now dedicates her expertise to supporting skincare brands and companies in strengthening their identity and growing with clarity and confidence.

Her mission is to make the digital and strategic aspects of beauty accessible, human, and effective, whether it’s launching a new concept or elevating an existing brand. With Edelweiss Creation, she offers a space where beauty businesses can evolve, stand out, and flourish.

Charlotte also consults for Gaia Tech, translating market needs into clear strategic guidance. She helps shape marketing and visibility strategies that connect Gaia Tech’s innovative Phenoliva Active with the real-world needs of indie and established beauty brands.

Find out more about Charlotte & her consulting services below:

• Website: Edelweiss Creation
• Website for Gaia Tech: Gaia Tech
• LinkedIn: Charlotte Julien

Special offer: Use code ‘BOTANICA’ to get €10.00 off all orders on Gaia Tech and 10% off on any consultancy fees with Charlotte

Related episodes you’ll enjoy:

• Episode 199: Upcycling and zero waste with Thomas Kerfoot
• Episode 201: FRUU Cosmetics and the sustainable upcycling of “Wonky Fruits”

Thank you for joining us for this episode of the Formula Botanica Green Beauty Conversations podcast. If you enjoyed listening, please share, subscribe and review this episode on Apple Podcasts, Spotify or Youtube so that more people can enjoy the show. Don’t forget to follow and connect with us on Facebook and Instagram.

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Lorraine Dallmeier

Lorraine Dallmeier is a Biologist, Chartered Environmentalist and the CEO of Formula Botanica, the award-winning online organic cosmetic science school. Read more about Lorraine and the Formula Botanica Team.