In the ever-changing world of skincare, few products offer the versatility of a well-formulated balm. And if you’re a member of the Formula Botanica community, you already know just how amazing balms can be. Not only are they great to use, but they’re also incredibly easy and satisfying to make.
While we’ve featured balms in our posts many times before, the one I have for you today is extra special. Unlike other balms which are typically made with beeswax or plant wax, this floral balm is enriched with luxurious floral waxes. Not only does it give it a naturally exquisite fragrance, eliminating the need for essential oils, but also provides a soft, ointment-like texture. Trust me, you’ll want to get your hands on this balm!
How can you use this floral balm?
This floral balm is a multipurpose product that is perfect for addressing all your skincare needs from head to toe. As it does not contain essential oils, it is gentle enough to be applied to the face, lips and the rest of the body. Its soft, semi-solid texture makes it very easy to apply, and the balm will effortlessly melt into the skin without leaving a greasy residue.
Here’s how you can use it:
- Lips: Apply a small amount to your lips to keep them hydrated and soft, especially during harsh weather conditions
- Brows: Use it to condition your eyebrows and provide a subtle sheen while keeping any stray hairs in place.
- Cuticles: Massage the balm into your cuticles to soften and nourish them.
- Elbows & knees: Apply the balm to your elbows and knees, which tend to be drier than other skin areas. It will help moisturise and smooth the skin, leaving it soft and supple.
- Hands: Use it as a hand balm to keep your hands moisturised and protected from daily activities.
As you can see, this floral balm serves as an all-purpose moisturiser, perfect for any part of your body that needs extra nourishment. Its unique formulation ensures it melts effortlessly into the skin, delivering deep hydration and a lasting barrier without the typical heavy, greasy feel of many balms.
Additionally, this floral balm features a delightful floral scent that pairs beautifully with perfume, adding a subtle fragrance to your skin. Whether you’re at home or on the go, this balm is the perfect companion for maintaining smooth, healthy skin that smells fantastic.
Key ingredients
Floral waxes
Floral waxes, from flowers like jasmine, rose, frangipani, and mimosa, are luxurious and beneficial for formulations. These waxes contain plant fragrances and beneficial properties. Unlike firmer waxes like beeswax, floral waxes create a semi-solid texture that feels great on the skin. They act as an occlusive, locking in moisture and protecting against environmental stressors, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Learn more about TEWL below:
Skin barrier 101: Essential guide for natural cosmetic formulators
Camellia Tea Oil
Camellia tea oil has been a prized skincare ingredient for millennia, known for nourishing skin and giving Geishas their dewy complexions. Rich in oleic acid and antioxidants (vitamins A, K, D, and E), it restores skin elasticity and combats UV damage. Its lightweight, non-greasy texture absorbs quickly, making it ideal for all skin types, including oily and sensitive. High in squalene, it keeps skin soft and supports the skin barrier, protecting against environmental damage and premature ageing. To learn more about camellia oil, try formulating this cleansing oil, or read more about squalene:
Ecosilk
Ecosilk, or Isoamyl laurate, is a versatile emollient derived from sugarcane and coconut oil. It reduces the greasy feel of oil-based products and forms a breathable barrier on the skin, protecting against TEWL and environmental stress. Known for its smooth, non-greasy consistency, it gives balms a luxurious feel, allowing for easy application and fast absorption. Its compatibility with many ingredients enhances the balm’s stability and efficacy, ensuring a soft, velvety finish.
Hyaluronic acid pearls
Oil-soluble hyaluronic acid is a fantastic innovation in skincare. Its benefits are similar to its water-soluble counterpart, but it can be used in anhydrous formulas. Available as small meltable pearls, it penetrates deeply, providing long-lasting cellular hydration. Naturally found in connective tissues, hyaluronic acid production decreases with age.
This advanced form retains moisture-binding capabilities, plumping the skin and maintaining a healthy glow. Additionally, it strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier, enhancing resilience against environmental stressors and preventing trans-epidermal water loss. Learn more about hyaluronic acid below.
Hydration revolution: the formulator’s guide to hyaluronic acid
Bisabolol
Bisabolol, or Alpha-bisabolol, is a natural anti-inflammatory compound from the candeia tree and can also be found in plants like chamomile. It soothes skin, reduces dryness, and promotes tissue granulation, aiding in wound recovery and reducing redness and blemishes.
Rich in antioxidants, bisabolol protects against environmental stressors and oxidative damage. Its woody scent adds complexity to the balm without needing additional fragrances.
Our formulation: Flower power beauty balm
Makes: 50g
Formulation: This is a hot-process formulation
Time: Around 45 minutes + 1-12 hours to set the balm
Level: Beginner-friendly
| Phase | Ingredients | INCI | Weight (g) |
| A | Sunflower oil | Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil | 15.00 |
| A | Jojoba oil | Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil | 10.00 |
| A | Apricot oil | Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil | 9.20 |
| A | Camellia tea oil | Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil | 5.00 |
| A | Jasmine wax | Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Cera | 2.50 |
| A | Ecosilk | Isoamyl Laurate | 2.50 |
| A | Mimosa wax | Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera | 2.60 |
| A | Frangipani wax | Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract | 1.00 |
| A | Hyaluronic acid pearls | Triolein, Sodium Hyaluronate | 0.70 |
| A | Rose wax | Rosa Damascena Flower Cera | 0.50 |
| B | Bisabolol | Bisabolol | 0.50 |
| B | Vitamin E | Tocopherol | 0.45 |
| B | Rose plant pigment | Distarch Phosphate, Anthocyanins, Citric Acid | 0.05 |
| Total: 50.00 |
Our Formulation: Flower Power Beauty Balm
Step 1: Prepare workspace
Prepare to formulate by sanitising your utensils and work area, wearing your personal protective equipment such as gloves and an apron and making sure you are set up to follow Good Manufacturing Practice while formulating. Set up your water bath and let it start heating up while you weigh out your ingredients.
Step 2: Weigh the oils, ecosilk, hyaluronic acid pearls, and floral waxes
Set a large glass beaker onto your scale. Weigh the sunflower, jojoba, apricot and camellia tea oils as well as the Ecosilk, hyaluronic acid pearls and the frangipani, rose, mimosa and jasmine waxes one by one, taring the scales after each ingredient.
Step 3: Heat the ingredients
Place your beaker into your warm water bath and heat the ingredients to around 55C or until fully melted. This should take around 5 minutes for this batch size. Stir the blend slowly with a glass rod or a mini whisk to help speed up the melting process.
Step 4: Cool down the mixture and add your extracts
Once everything is fully melted, remove the beaker from the water bath and allow the balm to start cooling down. Once it reaches a soft trace, which should take around 10 minutes (when your stirring utensil leaves a line that bounces back), add in the bisabolol, vitamin E and the rose plant pigment. This is your heat-sensitive ingredients phase (phase B) so we add these once the blend is below 40C. Stir the blend well to fully combine the ingredients together.
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Step 5: Package & label
Transfer the balm to your chosen container. We are using a screw-top glass jar. Label your product and enjoy!
FAQ/Substitutions
Can I swap the floral waxes?
Yes, you can! If you can’t find floral waxes, then Cera bellina will give you the closest texture but you can also swap for other plant waxes such as rice bran wax and reduce the percentage. You will lose the floral scent but you can add some essential oils if you wish to.
What alternative can I use to the HA pearls?
These are harder to substitute as there are not as many similar ingredients on the market, but you could use any other oil-soluble active ingredients that you want. You could try CO2 extracts, coenzyme Q10 or bakuchiol. They will have different benefits but still create fantastic products.
What can I use instead of Ecosilk?
Ecosilk is a lightweight emollient that functions as a silicone alternative so any other lightweight emollients or silicone alternatives can also be used. You could try olive squalane or simply increase the percentage of camellia oil.
Can I add more pigment?
Yes, you can add more pigment if you want the balm to have a stronger colour or you can omit it if you don’t have access to plant pigments. Just make sure you adjust the other ingredients within the formulation accordingly.
Become a cosmetic formulator
If you’ve enjoyed making this floral balm, why not take a look at our free formulation course? In this short, you’ll learn how to formulate organic skincare from the comfort of your home and how to become a cosmetic formulator.
Formulation is easy, fun, and empowering, so don’t miss out!
Suppliers:
Many of the suppliers below ship internationally. We show their country or regional base.
Aromazone (EU)
Aromantic (UK)
Alexmo Cosmetics (EU)
Manske (EU)
Soap Kitchen (UK)
Elemental (EU)
Lotioncrafter (USA)
Essential Wholesale (USA)
Go Native (New Zealand)
Naturally Balmy (UK)
O&3 – The Oil Family (UK, EU)
Soap & More (Canada)
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Brooke Medhurst is a Tutor at Formula Botanica. Find out more about the Formula Botanica Team.
