How to make a 2-in-1 antioxidant face & lips oleogel mask

If you’re looking for a fun DIY skincare project with professional-level results, this antioxidant face & lips oleogel mask formula is for you.

Designed for formulators who already have a basic understanding of oleogels and want to take their skills further, this gorgeous, bright orange gel formulation is fun to make, cost-effective, and super satisfying to use.

What makes it unique? It’s a 2-in-1 product that works as both a nourishing antioxidant mask and an effective oil-based cleanser, meaning you don’t need any other cleansing products in your routine. In fact, this might be the only cleanser you’ll ever need.

It also features a new gelling method using sucrose stearate and glycerine instead of Sucragel® or Sapogel®, which can be difficult (and expensive!) to source in some parts of the world. Here’s how to make it.

Formulation overview

This antioxidant face & lips oleogel mask is a 2-in-1 product that can be used as both a face and lip mask, but also as a cleanser, meaning you don’t need any other cleansing product when using this.

The mask’s beautiful, bright colour comes from astaxanthin, a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory marine ingredient, known for its ability to neutralise free radicals and protect cells from oxidative stress. You can learn more about this unique ingredient in the post below:

Is astaxanthin the cosmetic ingredient for 2023?

The formulation is also fragrance-free and is therefore suitable for sensitive skin.

How to use this antioxidant oleogel mask

To use this 2-in-1 oleogel mask, apply to dry skin using dry fingers or a clean spatula, then massage it in. Leave the mask on for 5 to 30 minutes, then wash it off with warm water.

For best results, remove the mask with a konjac sponge for a deeper cleanse and a smooth, refreshed finish. You could also do a lymphatic drainage massage when using this product in the mornings.

If you want to use this formulation as a daily cleanser, simply massage it in and rinse off straight away – no need for any other cleansing products. Just make sure you don’t use wet fingers to apply the product. Use your clean, dry fingers or a sanitised spoon/spatula instead (sanitise the tool with 70% isopropyl alcohol or ethanol beforehand).

Why you’ll love this multifunctional mask

Not only does this mask double as a cleanser, but it also deeply nourishes the skin and provides antioxidant protection. It also gently lifts away impurities while brightening, softening, and helping to protect the skin from environmental stressors. The result? Skin that feels clean, refreshed, and visibly more radiant – all in one simple step.

This formulation is also designed to be accessible and cost-effective. You only need three core ingredients: oil, glycerine, and 2% sucrose stearate to build a beautiful, stable oleogel.

This is to give you an alternative to Sucragel® or Sapogel®, as these sugar-based gelling ingredients can be hard to source in some parts of the world, and are often expensive.

Key ingredients

When designing this antioxidant face & lips oleogel mask, I used some of the ingredients I already had in my formulation cupboard, like botanical oils and glycerine. But I also purchased a few ingredients for this formulation — specifically, sucrose stearate, astaxanthin, bisabolol, and some of the CO₂ extracts like amaranth.

I selected each ingredient carefully to provide powerful antioxidant protection to the skin and the formulation itself.

At its core, the foundation of this oleogel is incredibly simple: oil, glycerine, and 2% sucrose stearate. With just these three ingredients, you can create a beautifully structured, stable oleogel, even if you don’t have access to Sucragel® or Sapogel®.

You can then customise the base with your favourite oil-soluble actives or extracts. Below are the key ingredients I’ve used:

Astaxanthin

INCI: Astaxanthin

Astaxanthin is a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent, known for its ability to neutralise free radicals and protect cells from oxidative stress.

Bisabolol

INCI: Bisabolol

Bisabolol is known for its powerful anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties. Derived from German chamomile, this active plant extract helps calm irritation, improve the condition of dehydrated skin, and restore the skin’s natural hydrolipid mantle.

This active also leaves the skin feeling velvety smooth and is especially beneficial for dry, flaky, or sensitive skin. Bisabolol also helps support elasticity and reduce signs of dryness. Want to learn more about bisabolol? Then this post might interest you:

Formulator’s guide to chamomile: A tale of two herbs

CO₂ Amaranth extract

INCI: Amaranthus Cruentus Seed Extract

Amaranth is highly valued for its potent moisturising, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it a popular ingredient in skincare and haircare formulations.

CO₂ Rosemary extract

INCI: Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Rosemary extract possesses a range of beneficial properties, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects. It is rich in compounds like carnosic acid and carnosol, which act as potent antioxidants, protecting cells from damage caused by free radicals. Want to learn more about rosemary? Then check out this helpful post:

Rosemary: the formulator’s secret cosmetic ingredient

CO₂ Raspberry extract

INCI: Rubus Idaeus Seed Extract

Last but not least, raspberry extract is a popular ingredient due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturising properties. It is rich in vitamins, fatty acids, and polyphenols like ellagic acid and anthocyanins, which contribute to its beneficial effects on skin and hair.

I’ve also added cold-pressed raspberry oil to the oleogel, as it has similar properties to the extract, and gives the mask a delicate, sweet, berry scent. 

Important note: If CO2 extracts aren’t available in your area, you can use oil-soluble extracts instead.

How to make an antioxidant face & lips oleogel mask

• Makes: 30g
• Level: Beginner-friendly to intermediate
• Formulation type: Hot-process

Equipment:

To make this antioxidant face & lips oleogel mask, you’ll need the following equipment:

• Personal protective equipment (PPE): Nitrile gloves, medical-grade face mask, disposable head cover, and an apron
• Jewellery scales (0.01g precision)
• Glass beakers, glass pipettes/glass rod/stainless steel spoon/stainless steel spatula/silicone spatula
• Water bath
• Thermometer
• Magnetic stirrer (optional)
• Suitable packaging

You can easily find all these on the Formula Botanica’s Amazon storefront if you don’t have them already.

You’ll also need to wash the beakers, spoons, spatulas, and containers with hot soapy water and sanitise them with 70% ethanol or isopropyl alcohol before you start formulating.

Formulation method:

Here’s how to make this antioxidant oleogel mask in just 5 simple steps:

• Step 1: Weigh the glycerine and sucrose stearate

Start by weighing the glycerine and sucrose stearate powder in a separate container, mix them well, and set aside. Sucrose stearate and glycerine will swell to make a white paste.

• Step 2: Weigh the jojoba oil and squalane

In another beaker, weigh the jojoba oil and squalane.

• Step 3: Heat both beakers to 75°C and blend them

Heat both phases to 75°C (you may heat them up to 80°C). Slowly and little by little, pour the oil into the glycerine-emulsifier blend and mix well after each addition. Start with several drops and increase the amount of oil with each addition.

Make sure the oil is fully incorporated into the glycerine-emulsifier blend and that nothing is floating on top. Try to be gentle during stirring and to not incorporate any air, as this would create bubbles, which would stay.

• Tip for small batches: To make the process faster and easier, you could use a magnetic stirrer at the beginning, following this method: put the hot glycerine-emulsifier blend on a magnetic stirrer, add a magnet inside the beaker and switch on the stirrer. Slowly add a little amount of oil and make sure it is fully blended before the next addition. You could use a small pipette for this, as it allows better control than pouring. You may notice that later your magnet stirrer can’t move because of the increased viscosity, so just take out the magnet and continue to mix manually with a glass rod or spatula/spoon.
• Tip for big batches: You could use an overhead stirrer or a special attachment for stirring (for example, the Misceo Turbo Agitator Blade). The process is the same: slowly add oil into the glycerine-emulsifier blend and make sure it is fully incorporated before the next addition.

• Step 4: Add the heat-sensitive ingredients to the oleogel base

Once the oleogel is below 40°C, add all heat-sensitive ingredients one by one, taring the scale after each addition (using the ‘tare’ button), and mix well after each addition. This includes your squalane, raspberry oil, rosehip oil, tocopherol, bisabolol, astaxanthin, and Co₂ extracts.

Alternatively, you can weigh them in a separate small beaker, mix well, and slowly add them little by little into your oleogel. Make sure the oil is fully incorporated into the oleogel and nothing is floating on top.

• Step 5: Package & label your oleogel mask

Finally, package your formulation and label it accordingly. And that’s it! You’ve just made a beautiful 2-in-1 oleogel mask using glycerine and sucrose stearate! 

Formulation notes:

Making this oleogel was very easy. Here are a few things to keep in mind when making it:

• The viscosity of this oleogel increases as it cools, so it’s best to fill your bottle or tube while the product is still warm and fluid.
• This is an anhydrous formulation which contains no preservatives. For that reason, jars are not recommended, especially if the product will be stored in a humid environment like a bathroom. Additionally, glycerine is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts moisture from the air. To maintain product integrity, store it in an airless pump or sealed tube, and keep it away from humidity whenever possible.
• Keep in mind that the final texture will be thicker and more viscous after 24-48 hours.

Customising your formula

This oleogel formulation is wonderfully versatile and easy to adapt, but there are a few things to keep in mind when customising it.

Because the oil phase is heated to 75–80°C, it’s important to select heat-stable oils with an iodine value below 100 to avoid oxidation during processing. You can also explore adding other emollients to enhance the skin feel and improve spreadability.

You can also experiment with different botanical oils, oil-soluble extracts, or essential oils.

If you’d like to add a natural scent to your formulation without using essential oils, try aromatic cold-pressed oils. I chose raspberry seed oil for its sweet, berry-like aroma, but there are many other options you can explore.  

You can also adjust the percentage of glycerine to tweak the final texture. Glycerine can be used at levels up to 55% to create a thick, ultra-stable oleogel. Lower percentages will produce a softer, more fluid texture, which may be better suited to airless pump packaging. My formulation uses 45% glycerine, resulting in a thick gel that works beautifully in tubes but may be too viscous for some pumps.

No matter how you customise your oleogel, don’t forget to include an antioxidant, like tocopherol or rosemary CO₂ extract, to help protect your oils from oxidation and extend the shelf life of your product.

Suggested suppliers

I sourced all of my ingredients from Beurre, a supplier in the Ukraine. However, if you’re based somewhere else, you can try using one of the following global suppliers:

INKY Ingredients (UK)

Aroma-Zone (EU)

Aromantic (UK)

Alexmo Cosmetics (EU)

Manske (EU)

The Soap Kitchen (UK)

Ellemental  (EU)

Lotioncrafter (USA)

Essential Labs (USA)

Go Native NZ (New Zealand)

Naturally Balmy (UK)

O&3 – The Oil Family (UK/EU)

Soap & More (Canada)

Handymade (EU)

Formulator Sample Shop (USA)

Final thoughts

I hope you enjoy making this antioxidant face & lips oleogel mask!  It’s a fun, satisfying project that gives you a chance to experiment with oleogel techniques, especially if you don’t have access to the Sucragel® or Sapogel® range, or if you’re curious to try something new. Let me know how it turned out in the comments below!

If you’re interested to learn more about oleogel, I also recommend the Oleogel Mini Lab, which is available exclusively to you as part of your Lab membership. In this mini course, you’ll learn about the science, structure, and formulation methods behind this exciting product type so you can create and formulate oleogels with confidence.

Alternatively, if you’re completely new to formulation, check out Formula Botanica’s free mini botanical formulation course, where you’ll learn how to formulate your own organic skincare products from home!

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Viktoriia Slyvka

Viktoriia Slyvka is a Grading Tutor at Formula Botanica and a Formula Botanica graduate. She is a big fan of the distillation process and her favourite formulations are oil-in-water emulsions.