Did you know that your skin faces countless stressors every day? Pollution, harsh weather, and even makeup can leave it feeling irritated and out of balance. That’s why today, I’m excited to show you how to make a soothing bi-phase cleanser that helps calm and nurture your skin.
This gentle cleanser not only lifts away makeup and dirt but also leaves your skin feeling soft and calm, never stripped. Packed with soothing ingredients like cucumber extract, calendula, and botanical oils, it’s designed to bring relief to even the most sensitive skin.
And the best part? You can easily recreate this soothing bi-phase cleanser at home. Ready to get started? Let’s dive in!
What is a bi-phase cleanser?
A bi-phase cleanser is exactly what it sounds like: a cleanser with two distinct phases—an oil phase and a water phase. Because oil and water don’t mix, the oil phase floats above the water phase, creating a visually appealing product with unique skin benefits.
To use your bi-phase cleanser, simply shake the bottle to blend the two phases, then apply it to your skin. I prefer using cotton pads for application as they help lift away makeup and dirt while ensuring an even distribution.
Why you should make this cleanser
Now that you know what a bi-phase cleanser is, you’re probably wondering what makes this particular formula so special.
First off, the ingredients are easy to find and are budget-friendly. The formulation method is also straightforward, even if you’re a beginner formulator.
Moreover, this bi-phase cleanser excels at removing dirt and makeup including those stubborn waterproof formulas. That’s because it combines lipophilic (oil-loving) and hydrophilic (water-loving) ingredients, which will remove dirt and makeup effectively without irritating or drying out your skin.
This bi-phase cleanser is also kind to your skin’s natural microbiome. You can learn more about this topic here:
Episode 38: What is skin microbiome skincare?
But that’s not all—this cleanser is a pleasure to use! Its stunning orange tint and delightful herbal scent turn your skincare routine into a sensory experience. I also love the skin feel of this cleanser. It feels velvety and soft on your skin and doesn’t leave a sticky or greasy residue.
And for my favourite part: it’s fully customisable! You can tweak the formula however you want to match your skin’s unique needs. Keep on reading to learn more about customisation.
Key ingredients
Before we talk about customisation, let’s take a look at the properties of the key ingredients of our soothing bi-phase cleanser:
- Cucumber extract: First up is cucumber extract, which is suitable for all skin types. Not only does it provide intense hydration, but it also helps soothe itchiness and redness, making it a fantastic addition for those with sensitive skin.
- Allantoin: Next, we have allantoin, a powerful skin moisturiser that helps prevent dryness and roughness while calming minor irritations, keeping your skin feeling soft and smooth.
- Lactobacillus ferment lysate: Lactobacillus ferment lysate is a probiotic with calming and soothing benefits. This active ingredient also supports your skin’s microbiome, promoting a healthy and balanced complexion.
- Aquaxyl: Aquaxyl is an active ingredient that reinforces the synthesis of essential lipids that help prevent water loss through the skin’s outer layer, boosting skin hydration.
- Calendula: Calendula extract is renowned for its soothing properties. It’s a beloved ingredient in skincare, which you can read more about here.
- Vitamin E: Tocopherol, or vitamin E, is an antioxidant that helps prevent the oil phase from premature oxidation and helps extend the shelf life of your bi-phase cleanser.
- Euxyl K712: This preservative is water-soluble and effective in acidic environments, which is perfect for our bi-phase cleanser.
These carefully selected ingredients work synergetically together to create a gentle yet effective cleanser that supports and nourishes your skin. Now, let’s talk about customisation!
How to customise your cleanser
While this bi-phase formula provides a basic framework for a bi-phase cleanser, you can easily modify it.
I’ve selected the ingredients above because they’re affordable and easy to source. However, feel free to tweak the formulation based on your preferences and skin needs!
You could for example replace the distilled water with a hydrosol, or add some water-soluble plant extracts like glycerites and bioferments in the water phase. Just remember to preserve your cleanser and maintain an optimal pH for the skin. You can find out more about the importance of pH and preservation below:
What can go wrong if you don’t control your formulation’s pH?
For the oil phase, you could use different botanical oils, oil-soluble plant extracts like macerates, or oil-soluble vitamins. Here are some oils you could use:
Top 10 botanical oils every formulator needs
You could also play with colour and have a different colour for each of your phases. Here are some colourful extracts you could add to your bi-phase cleanser:
You could even modify the scent, using either essential oils, hydrosols or plant extracts. Currently, the formula doesn’t contain any fragrance to prevent irritation. Always make sure you research your ingredients before using them:
The only ingredient you can’t replace is sodium chloride. That’s because salt keeps the phases clearly separated, which makes the product so aesthetic.
Our formulation: Soothing bi-phase cleanser
Makes: 100g
Level: Beginner-friendly
| Phase | Ingredients | INCI | Weight (g) |
| A | Distilled water | Aqua | 42.20 |
| A | Cucumber extract | Cucumis sativus fruit juice, glycerin | 10.00 |
| A | Allantoin | Allantoin | 0.10 |
| A | Sodium PCA | Sodium PCA | 1.50 |
| A | Euxyl K712 | Euxyl K712 | 0.60 |
| A | Probiotic complex (Lactobacillus ferment lysate) | Lactobacillus ferment lysate, leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate | 1.00 |
| A | Aquaxyl | Xylitylglucoside, anhydroxylitol, xylitol | 1.50 |
| A | Glycerin | Glycerin | 2.00 |
| B | NaCl | Sodium chloride | 0.50 |
| C | Lactic acid | Lactic acid | q.s.* |
| D | Cotton seed oil | Gossypium herbaceum seed oil | 20.00 |
| D | Plum seed oil | Prunus domestic seed oil | 10.00 |
| D | Grapeseed oil | Vitis vinifera seed oil | 10.00 |
| D | Calendula extract | Calendula officinalis flower extract | 0.10 |
| D | Vitamin E | Tocopherol | 0.50 |
*q.s. stands for as needed.
Equipment:
- Scales
- Glass beakers
- Glass rods
- Silicone spatula
- Watch glass
- pH strips or pH meter
- Suitable container
Formulation method:
Here’s how you can recreate this soothing bi-phase cleanser in 8 simple steps:
Step 1: Clean your workspace and prepare your ingredients
Start by cleaning and sanitising your workspace and preparing all the ingredients you need.
Step 2: Weigh the water phase ingredients
Next, weigh the distilled water in a beaker, then tare the scale and add the cucumber extract and allantoin. Mix gently using a glass rod until the solution is clear.
Step 3: Add the remaining water-soluble ingredients
Now add the sodium PCA, the probiotic complex, the aquaxyl, glycerine and the preservative in the same beaker. Mix everything and then add sodium chloride. Let it dissolve.
Step 4: Measure and adjust the pH
The next step is to measure the pH of your water phase and adjust it if needed. The ideal pH for this bi-phase cleanser is 5. You can learn all about pH measurement and adjustments in our award-winning Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation.
Step 5: Weigh the oil phase ingredients
The second part of this formulation is to weigh the oil phase ingredients. In another beaker, weigh the cotton and plum seed oils.
Step 6: Heat the remaining oil-soluble ingredients
Weigh the remaining oil-soluble ingredients—the grapeseed oil and calendula extract—into a separate beaker. Gently heat the mixture to 30-35°C in a hot water bath to help dissolve the calendula extract, as it has a thick, dark brown consistency. Stir until fully combined.
Step 7: Add the vitamin E
Next, add the tocopherol (or vitamin E) and mix thoroughly until everything is completely dissolved.
Step 8: Combine the phases, package & label
It’s now time to combine both phases! Slowly pour the water phase, prepared earlier, into a glass bottle. Either a pump or pipette works fine.
Then, gently add the oil phase. And there you have it! Your very own soothing bi-phase cleanser. All you need to do now is label it, and it’s ready to use!
Formulation notes:
Calendula extract is a thick, dark brown paste, so only a small amount should be used to avoid staining the skin or fabrics during application.
Feel free to experiment with different active ingredients and colours to create a bi-phase cleanser suited to your unique skin needs and preferences. I highly recommend this, as it’s what sets apart a recipe follower from a true formulator!
Learn how to formulate organic skincare
If you enjoyed this formulation, why not take it a step further with our free mini botanical formulation course?
Sign up today and discover how to create your own organic skincare from scratch with Formula Botanica- no experience needed!
Want to dive deeper? Explore more advanced topics like bi-phase cleansers and the skin’s microbiome in our exclusive membership site, The Lab at Formula Botanica. With over 50 bite-sized Mini Labs, including the Microbiome Mini Lab and Tri-phase Oils Mini Lab, you’ll stay ahead of the latest formulation trends and master new skills.
Register now and start your formulation journey!
FAQ/Substitutions
What is a bi-phase cleanser?
A bi-phase cleanser is a cleanser with two distinct phases: an oil phase and a water phase. The oil phase sits on top of the water phase, as oil and water don’t mix. Since it contains both lipophilic (oil-loving) and hydrophilic (water-loving) ingredients, it is great for removing dirt and makeup without making your skin feel dry or irritated.
How do you use a bi-phase cleanser?
Start by shaking your bi-phase cleanser well to activate and mix the two phases temporarily. Once combined, apply a small amount to a cotton pad and gently sweep it across your face to remove makeup and dirt. This will leave your skin feeling clean and silky smooth.
Does it need a preservative?
Yes. Any formulation that contains water or water-based ingredients needs preservation. We teach everything about safe and natural preservation in our Diploma in Organic Skincare Formulation.
Can you substitute ingredients?
Yes, of course. You can easily substitute the water-based or oil-based ingredients as long as you maintain the formulation’s pH and preserve the final product correctly.
Where can I learn to formulate?
You can learn to formulate natural and organic skincare with Formula Botanica, the world’s leading online cosmetic formulation school. Whether you’re a complete beginner or already have some formulation experience, our award-winning and accredited courses teach you how to formulate safe and effective organic skincare from scratch.
Suggested suppliers
Many of the suppliers below ship internationally. We indicate their country or regional base.
Aroma-Zone (EU)
Aromantic (UK)
Alexmo Cosmetics (EU)
Manske (EU)
The Soap Kitchen (UK)
Ellemental (EU)
Lotioncrafter (USA)
Essential Labs (USA)
Go Native NZ (New Zealand)
Naturally Balmy (UK)
O&3 – The Oil Family (UK/EU)
Soap & More (Canada)
Handymade (EU)
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Miroslava is a grading tutor at Formula Botanica. She has a Ph.D in neuroscience, expertise in biology and chemistry, and a lifelong passion for natural cosmetic formulation.
