The CBD face and body cream formulation in this post is not only a fabulous multi-tasking product but also explores further the still trending branch of skincare using hemp seed extracts. The use of CBD has sparked intrigue and excitement in the skincare industry since cannabinoids have been shown to have a potential role in treatments for several inflammatory conditions. CBD ingredients have since been incorporated into all sorts of formulations but numerous studies have shown that CBD oil has anti-inflammatory benefits when applied to skin.
This makes CBD a suitable ingredient for acne-prone skin, while its calming benefits help reactive skin look and feel better. Although there is a great deal of encouraging feedback, most scientists studying CBD agree that more conclusive, scientific studies are needed to confirm these initial results.
In this formula for a multiuse soothing CBD face and body cream, Hemp NECTA® is used as the source of CBD. This is a hemp seed oil thought a suitable ingredient in the regenerative and soothing care of dry, irritated and stressed skin. It contains a standardised level of natural CBD content: 50ppm cannabidiol.
The soothing CBD face and body cream was developed keeping in mind the main properties of CBD. We considered carefully which ingredients would work in synergy to boost the efficiency of hemp seed oil and cannabidiol to achieve the required therapeutic result of calming and soothing inflamed, irritated and dry skin.
This cream can be used as part of a regular skin care regimen or when it is required to soothe specific areas of the skin.
If you’d like to find out more about CBD in skincare, these links will help you explore further:
The Formulator’s Guide to CBD Skincare
Podcast 24: How Cannabinoids work in Skincare
Let’s now take a look at some of the ingredients in more detail and discover why they were chosen for this particular formulation.
Our Ingredients for a CBD Face & Body Cream
Hemp NECTA® – Full Circle Upcycled Ingredient
Hemp NECTA® is made from waste hemp seeds which have been upcycled from the food industry making this a sustainable, natural and high-quality ingredient. It contains a standardised level of CBD content and is also rich in linoleic acid content which plays a role in nourishing, protecting and strengthening the skin barrier without feeling too heavy. In addition to cannabidiol, it also contains other skin-enhancing cannabinoids which contribute to the overall beneficial effects of the oil.
Soothing Light Apple Tree
Soothing Light Apple Tree from Naolys acts on two levels of the inflammatory system: the inflammation mediators and the vasodilators. It helps to decrease irritation and redness while soothing and calming the skin and improving skin radiance and skin tone.
HydraGeneration Papyrus
HydraGeneration Papyrus by Naolys helps to rebuild the hydrolipidic film by providing essential hydration to the skin. It restores the skin barrier and stimulates cell renewal by promoting the production of stratum corneum lipids like cholesterol and ceramides for smoother, supple skin.
Evening Primrose Oil
The cosmetic application of this oil is recommended in the care of dry, irritated, inflamed skin. Anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties are purported to be provided by linoleic and linolenic acids and additionally enhanced by the antioxidant action of phytosterols.
Amaranthus Squalane
This natural emollient extracted from amaranthus, imparts a suppleness to the skin with a light, non-greasy and easily absorbed aesthetic. Intended to replenish the squalane present in our own skin lipids that decreases with ageing, helping to prevent skin dryness and irritation.
Cucumber Water PF
Cucumber Water PF helps to improve the texture of skin. Cucumbers were used by ancient civilisations for the treatment of blemished skin and heat rash and applied externally as a compress for burns, sores and softening of the skin. The flesh of cucumbers is primarily composed of water, but also contains ascorbic acid and caffeic acid; both of which help soothe skin irritation.
Willow Bark Extract
Willow Bark Extract is derived from the bark of the black willow tree. In its standardised form, it provides consistent levels of salicylates, commonly referred to as natural salicylic acid, which allows its use as an active ingredient. This extract can be used in any cosmetic formulation to enhance cell turnover. It can act as a natural anti-microbial agent or as a replacement for synthetic salicylic acid.
Please refer to our list of suggested suppliers at the end of the post for their guidelines on working with these ingredients to ensure the maximum level of efficacy.
#CBD skincare is still exciting the cosmetics industry. Learn about cannabinoids in this @formulabotanica soothing CDB face and body cream formulation. #cbdfacecream #hempoil #cannabinoids Click To Tweet 
Our Formulation for a Soothing CBD Face & Body Cream
Quantity: 100 g
Cream’s Characteristics:
- Colour: Pale yellow
- Scent: Herbaceous
- Texture: Smooth, rich, silky cream
Specialised Equipment Used:
Dynamic MX100UK Stick Blender with Turbo Blend; and Hanna Instruments HI-981032 pH tester. Note: the phases are numbered to indicate the order in which the ingredients need to be added.
| Phase | Ingredients | INCI | weight |
| A | Distilled Water | Aqua | 29.00 |
| B1 | Solagum Tara | Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum | 0.8 |
| B2 | Vegetable Glycerine | Glycerin | 3.00 |
| B3 | Distilled water | Aqua | 20.00 |
| C1 | Golden jojoba | Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil | 10.00 |
| C2 | Grapeseed oil | Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil | 6.00 |
| C3 | Kokum butter | Garcinia Indica Seed Butter | 4.00 |
| C4 | Montanov 202 | Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside | 3.00 |
| C5 | Cetearyl Alcohol | Cetearyl Alcohol | 2.00 |
| D1 | Amaranthus Squalane | Squalane | 3.00 |
| D2 | Hemp NECTA | Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Cannabidiol | 3.00 |
| D3 | Evening primrose oil | Oenothera Biennis Oil | 2.00 |
| D4 | High strength vitamin E | Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Tocopherol | 1.00 |
| D5 | Lavender true | Lavandula Angustifolia Oil | 0.08 |
| D6 | Tea tree oil | Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Oil | 0.06 |
| D7 | Roman chamomile | Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil | 0.06 |
| E1 | Cucumber water | Cucumis Sativus Fruit Water, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate | 3.00 |
| E2 | Willow bark extract | Aqua, Salix Nigra Bark Extract | 2.00 |
| E3 | Leucidal SF Max | Lactobacillus Ferment | 2.00 |
| E4 | AMTcide coconut | Lactobacillus, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract | 2.00 |
| E5 | Soothing light apple tree | Malus Domestica Callus Extract | 1.00 |
| E6 | HydraGeneration Papyrus | Cyperus Papyrus Leaf Cell Extract | 1.00 |
| F | E-Leen Green | Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Citrus Aurantium Amara Fruit Extract, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Sinensis Peel Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid | 2.00 |
| G | Sodium Gluconate | Sodium Gluconate | q.s* |
| Total: 100.00 |
* Quantum satis (q.s.) is a Latin term, meaning the amount which is enough. It has its origins as a quantity specification in medicine and pharmacology, where a similar term quantum sufficit “as much as is sufficient” has been used.
Method of Manufacture
- Phase A
Measure out phase A into a beaker and heat to 70°C.
- Phase B – separate ingredients
Measure out B3 into a beaker and place in the bain marie. Heat it to 40°C and place a magnetic stirrer inside the beaker and switch the stirrer on. In a separate beaker, measure out B1 and then B2. Mix together using a glass rod or spatula until an opaque, viscous fluid is formed.
- Phase B – all together
Slowly add mixture B1B2 into B3. This should thicken very quickly, the stirrer will stop once it has reached its maximum viscosity. Remove magnetic stirrer and set beaker to the side.
- Phase C ingredients
Measure out phase C into a beaker and place in bain marie, heat to 70°C.
- Mixing Phases A & C
When phase A and C are the same temperature, add phase A into phase C and mix with a spatula. The solution will be a milky yellow colour. Take the beaker out of the bain marie and place under homogenisation for 2 minutes on level 2 in order to emulsify the mixture.
- Mixing Phase AC with B
Allow phase AC to cool to 40°C, add phase B and mix in with a spatula, the mixture will look lumpy. Now place it under homogenisation for 3 minutes on level 2.
- Phase D
In a separate beaker, measure out phase D and mix with a glass rod or spatula, until the colour is uniform. When mixture of ABC is below 30°C, add phase D and mix in using a spatula. Mix again with high shear for 1 minute on level 2.
- Phase E
Measure out phase E into a beaker and add to mixture of ABCD, mix in well with a spatula and mix again with high shear for 1 minute on level 3.
- Phase F
Measure out phase F and add it to mixture of ABCDE.
- pH testing
Take a sample of the cream, and measure the pH. The optimum pH for this cream is 5 – 5.50. After step 9, this cream will be approximately pH 4.60 ± 0.30 and it will need to be increased.
- Adjusting pH
Make a 10% Solution of phase G. Using a pipette add the solution one drop at a time, measuring the pH after each additional drop until the optimum pH is reached.
- Bottle
Decant into a pump bottle – ideally airless – ready for use.
Formulation Tips & Replacement Ingredients
- Soothing Light Apple Tree and HydraGeneration Papyrus are whole plant culture cells dispersed in a glycerin medium. These need to be shaken thoroughly prior to use in order to evenly distribute the cells.
- It is advised that jojoba oil helps to stabilise the Hemp NECTA® and slows down the rate of rancidity so it should be used in any formulations containing Hemp NECTA®.
- Other ingredients may be substituted but please note that if doing so the ingredients’ quantities will need to be adjusted.
- If substituting essential oils, ensure you check the dermal limits.
- Always remember to check the INCI of the ingredients you use as they may differ from the ones listed here.
- Safety: always conduct stability and microbiology tests prior to making your product available to customers.
Suggested Suppliers
Amaranthus Squalane – Formulatorsampleshop.eu / formulatorsampleshop.com
Montonov 202 – UK: Aromantic.co.uk / EU: Alexmo.de
Hemp NECTA: Full Circle
High Strength Vitamin E – Naissance
Cucumber Water PF – Formulator Sample Shop (EU) / Formulator Sample Shop (USA).
Willow Bark Extract – Formulator Sample Shop (EU) / Formulator Sample Shop (USA)
Leudical SF Max – Formulator Sample Shop (EU) /Formulator Sample Shop (USA)
AMTcide Coconut – Formulator Sample Shop (EU) / Formulator Sample Shop (USA)
Soothing Apple Tree and HydraGeneration Papyrus – Manufacturer: Naolys
E-Leen® Green A – Manufacturer: Minasolve
FAQs
What is CBD skin care?
CBD skincare, or Cannabidiol skincare, has been a trending branch of cosmetics for a few years now. As CBD is extracted from the Cannabis sativa plant – hemp – it has attracted both controversy and excitement. It is still of great interest to the skincare industry as cannabinoids have been shown to have a potential role in treatments for several inflammatory conditions of the skin. CBD can be found in numerous types of skincare but is popular in formulations aimed at sensitive and acne-prone skin care.
What does CBD do for skin?
There is still much research to do on how cannabinoids work in topical usage cosmetics as their mechanism of action is not fully explained. However, the hypothesis is that they regulate sebum production, are anti-inflammatory and induce antiproliferative activity (inhibit cell growth). Medical literature has shown some evidence of a role for CBD in the management of symptoms of skin conditions like psoriasis, eczema, pruritus, allergic contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis and acne as it appears to provide relief from and modify the itching sensation, as well as reduce inflammation.
Does CBD skincare work?
CBD’s activities are valuable in cosmetics where they appear to have a wide range of uses and benefits. Their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant actions are both key aspects of anti-ageing products, while the anti-inflammatory action of CBD skincare indicates its value in skincare for sensitive skin. Its ability to regulate sebum regulation point to its obvious applicability for use in cosmetics aimed at acne-prone skin.
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Rouah was a member of the Formula Botanica team between 2020-2022. Rouah is a cosmetic chemist with many years’ experience as a formulator, product and project manager and scientific advisor in the cosmetic industry. Passionate about understanding the science behind raw ingredients, Rouah also has a deep interest in wellbeing, sustainable action, and social influence.
