AI has levelled up – and if you’ve been playing with tools like ChatGPT lately, you’ve probably noticed it too.
Two years ago, Formula Botanica CEO Lorraine Dallmeier challenged ChatGPT to create a cosmetic formulation for her, and it was a frustrating merry-go-round of vague advice, incorrect safety limits, and an irritating insistence that she should “hire a cosmetic chemist.” Fast-forward to today, and Lorraine decided it was time for a rematch… only this time, she listened.
In last week’s interview with Hejab Malik of Potion AI, Lorraine and Hejab explored the role AI could play in the future of cosmetic formulation. That conversation got Lorraine thinking: had ChatGPT finally learned enough to be a truly useful partner for indie formulators?
In this week’s opinion episode of Green Beauty Conversations, Lorraine put ChatGPT to the test again with a new, simpler brief – and the results were very different from her first attempt.
From exact percentages and proper INCI names to IFRA-compliant fragrance blends and preservation advice, ChatGPT stepped up in ways she didn’t expect. But does that mean it can now formulate for you? Find out in this episode.
“AI can be a phenomenal thinking partner – but it still needs you to guide it, to spot errors, and to bring the love it can never add to a blend.” — Lorraine Dallmeier
Key takeaways:
- The early AI challenge fell flat: Two years ago, ChatGPT failed to meet the challenge when Lorraine asked it to formulate a vitamin C solid serum bar. It offered vague, generic advice, got safety data wrong, and repeatedly told Lorraine to consult a cosmetic chemist. This highlighted how unprepared AI was to support confident, experienced formulators.
- A new brief with much better results: This time, Lorraine gave ChatGPT a simpler but still challenging brief: a 100% natural or naturally derived leave-on facial emulsion that complied with IFRA standards for essential oil use. The results were dramatically better, with a complete formulation including exact percentages, correct INCI names, phase breakdowns, and preservation guidance.
- Why Lorraine’s results were different: ChatGPT’s improved performance may partly be due to Lorraine’s ongoing use of it over recent months for scripting, reviewing, and brainstorming. By constantly challenging it, Lorraine trained it to respond as if it were working with a professional formulator. However, it also appears more capable overall than it was two years ago.
- AI adapts to the user: ChatGPT admitted it would not give the same detailed, risk-aware formulation to a beginner, instead opting for more disclaimers and less specificity. This shows that AI can “adapt” its caution levels based on the perceived skill of the person asking.
- Where AI falls short: While AI can now be a powerful support tool for experienced formulators, it still can’t replace human expertise, sensory judgement, or the emotional connection we bring to our work. As we always tell our students, the “final ingredient” in any formulation is love – and AI will never be able to add that. Always question, correct, and guide AI, and never rely on it without a solid foundation in formulation knowledge.
Thank you for joining us for this episode of the Formula Botanica Green Beauty Conversations podcast. If you enjoyed listening, please share, subscribe and review this episode on Apple Podcasts, Spotify or Youtube so that more people can enjoy the show. Don’t forget to follow and connect with us on Facebook and Instagram.
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Lorraine Dallmeier is a Biologist, Chartered Environmentalist and the CEO of Formula Botanica, the award-winning online organic cosmetic science school. Read more about Lorraine and the Formula Botanica Team.
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