Podcast 301: I spoke to an active ingredient scientist… and it changed how I see skincare

We are living through the golden age of the active ingredient. From vitamin C to barrier-boosting complexes, skincare shelves – and social media feeds – are saturated with products promising transformative results thanks to one hero compound. But what if our obsession with actives was actually distracting us from what our skin really needs?

In this episode of Green Beauty Conversations, Formula Botanica CEO Lorraine Dallmeier is joined by Dr Jule Lexa Völzke, Manager of Product Design and Development at CLR Berlin, to go behind the scenes of how these ingredients are really created, tested and validated.

Together, they uncover active ingredients, what they really are, what they actually do for the skin, and answer questions such as: do we always need an active ingredient at all? How much do simple ingredients like glycerine really contribute to skin health? And why does hydration still outperform so many headline actives?

If you have ever felt overwhelmed by ingredient trends, felt sceptical of TikTok skincare tips, or are curious about how actives actually work on the skin, this conversation is for you.

“You could say the active ingredients are the spices. You just need really little of them to have an impact and to give another layer or a direction for the meal.”  — Dr Jule Lexa Völzke

In this episode with Dr Jule Lexa Völzke, you will hear:

• What an active ingredient really is: Active ingredients are often misunderstood as miracle compounds, but in reality, they are carefully tested ingredients designed to address a specific skin condition. Jule explains how actives are validated through science, measured for efficacy and only considered successful if the consumer can actually notice a benefit on their skin.
• How active ingredients are developed behind the scenes: From sourcing plants, algae or bacteria strains to navigating regulatory hurdles and sustainability concerns, the journey from idea to market is long and complex. Many potential actives never survive the early stages due to stability, supply chain or efficacy challenges.
• Why in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo testing all matter: Jule breaks down the different testing methods used by ingredient suppliers and explains why no single test can tell the whole story. She highlights the importance of linking laboratory data with real-life human experience to build a coherent and honest ingredient story.
• Why hydration is still underestimated in skincare: Despite being one of the most effective ways to support skin health, hydration is often overlooked because it feels too basic. This episode explains why well-hydrated skin is a sign of a strong barrier and why many actives cannot compensate for poor moisturisation.
• The disconnect between formulators and marketing teams: Scientific data alone does not sell products, but oversimplified marketing can distort the truth. Jule shares how ingredient suppliers translate complex research into usable claims, and where communication between R&D and marketing most often breaks down.

Key takeaways include:

• Not every skincare product needs an active ingredient: Actives are problem-solution tools, not mandatory additions. If the skin’s basic needs, such as hydration and barrier support, are met, many concerns improve without the need for complex actives. Choosing an active should always be driven by a clear skin need, not by trends or fear of missing out.
• Simple ingredients often outperform ‘sexy’ actives: Humectants like glycerine remain benchmarks for hydration, frequently outperforming more fashionable actives in clinical testing. These functional ingredients work quietly in the background, yet they form the backbone of effective formulations and consumer-visible results.
• Good skincare only works if people actually use it: Actives require time and consistency to deliver results. If a product is unpleasant to use, it will sit unused in a cupboard. Sensory experience, comfort and enjoyment are essential for long-term efficacy and should be considered as important as ingredient selection.
• Trends are temporary, skin biology is timeless: While trends such as microbiome care or longevity may dominate headlines, they are often new perspectives on long-standing biological processes. Ingredient suppliers grounded in skin biology can meet trends without being driven by them, ensuring longevity and relevance.

Meet our guest: Dr Jule Lexa Völzke, Manager of Product Design & Development at CLR Berlin

With a background in chemistry and research experience in bioanalytics, Dr Jule Lexa Völzke works in product design and development for cosmetic active ingredients at CLR Berlin GmbH.

She collaborates closely with CLR’s R&D departments to bridge the gap between consumer needs and the science of the skin, with the aim of developing effective skincare solutions.

Founded in 1926, CLR Berlin brings nearly a century of expertise in fermentation and plant extracts. With a strong focus on skin biology, the company develops natural and effective active ingredients designed to improve skin well-being. Jule’s work sits at the heart of this approach, ensuring each active is scientifically consistent, relevant, and genuinely beneficial.

Find out more about CLR Berlin:

• Website: CLR Berlin
• LinkedIn: CLR Berlin

Related episodes:

• Episode 286: Why do some skincare ingredients take decades to go mainstream?
• Episode 295: Could vitamin C’s days be numbered in skincare?

Thank you for joining us for this episode of the Formula Botanica Green Beauty Conversations podcast. If you enjoyed listening, please share, subscribe and review this episode on Apple Podcasts, Spotify or Youtube so that more people can enjoy the show. Don’t forget to follow and connect with us on Facebook and Instagram.

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Lorraine Dallmeier

Lorraine Dallmeier is a Biologist, Chartered Environmentalist and the CEO of Formula Botanica, the award-winning online organic cosmetic science school. Read more about Lorraine and the Formula Botanica Team.